Thursday, March 27, 2014

A post about mulch!

Mulch is a favorite topic of mine.  It does so many things for a garden - it really is a cure all for most of what ails us!  Here is a short list of the benefits of mulch in a garden:
  • Reduces weeding by smothering weed seedlings
  • Reduces watering by shading the soil to reduce evaporation
  • Keeps soil cooler in spring and warmer in fall
  • Adds organic matter to the soil as it breaks down
  • Increases soil life by providing a perfect environment for microbes and beneficial insects
  • Prevents rain splash on leaves which dramatically reduces leaf molds and diseases
  • Looks nice in the garden
  • Reduces erosion from heavy rains by dispersing the force of rain drops
So what kind of mulch should you use?  Generally, you want something that is pretty fine and that will break down in the garden within a year.  An exception to this would be mulching perennial herb beds.  A longer lasting (wood chip) mulch on those beds will work just fine. 

A word about wood chip mulch:
A wood mulch in your annual vegetable garden can also work if you are careful to pull it back at planting time.  If the wood gets mixed with the soil then it can reduce the nitrogen available to your plants and it's chunky nature can make it difficult to plant seeds.  Some sources will say that you should never put wood mulch on an annual vegetable garden because it will tie up all the nitrogen in the soil.  What research has shown is that the very top inch or so of the soil will have its nitrogen taken up by the wood as part of its decomposition.  However, deeper in the soil (where most of the plants' roots are) will not be affected.  Wood chips provide a more lasting mulch and as they decompose they provide a much wider and more balanced organic matter to the soil than the other mulch materials often used (grass clippings, hay, straw).  So, the moral of the story is that you shouldn't discount wood chips but you do have to take special care if you use them.

Ok, back to other mulches!  Most of us will end up using an easy and inexpensive mulch like grass clippings or straw.  Old hay can work well, but make sure its partially decomposed or you'll be planting a hay field in your garden.  This can happen with straw too if it wasn't harvested well.  Then you end up weeding wheat out of your garden (been there).  You want whatever it is to be reasonably finely chopped.  Grass clippings will come this way.  You can chop straw or hay by putting it in a bucket or barrel and running a string trimmer in it.  Be careful because this will make a lot of dust and little bits of stuff may come flying out!  Safety glasses are a must!

There are 2 basic categories of things that you will mulch in your garden.  The first includes the big plants - anything that you space a foot apart or more when planting qualifies.  For example: peppers, tomatoes, corn, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, tomatillos, cucumbers, squash and potatoes (sweet and regular).  For transplants, you'll mulch as soon as you put them in the ground.  If you're starting from seeds (i.e. corn, cucumbers, squash), you'll want to wait until the plants are several inches tall to avoid smothering them as they start.  Potatoes are an exception - they have enough energy that you can mulch them from the get go and they'll still come right on up.

The second category is the small stuff.  These are almost all started from seeds and usually have a much closer spacing.  Many of these will be planted close enough together that they will create their own mulch once they are a few weeks old.  Beans, peas, carrots and block planted lettuce all fall in this category.  If you're planting them in traditional rows, then you can mulch the sides of the rows and the aisles as soon as the plants are a few inches tall. 

The next question is how much mulch to use?  The answer is LOTS!  A light covering of mulch does almost nothing.  In order to really suppress weeds, it needs to be 6" thick or so.  Even at that, you'll have to top it off halfway through the season to maintain the moisture retaining and weed suppressing benefits.  As you can tell, this means you need a LOT of mulch material!  For some scale, in our garden in town we mulched aisles and beds with a combination of old hay/straw and grass clippings.  We went through 3 round bales of straw/hay each year (roughly 3000 lbs) plus at least a truck load of grass clippings picked up from the neighborhood.  That is for a garden with about 8,000 sq. ft. of annual vegetable growing space including aisles.  I would have used more too if I had it.

Ok, that's the skinny on mulch in your garden.  Happy gardening and keep that soil covered!

3 comments:

  1. Perfect! Lightbulb moment on mulching according to plant spacing!

    How long does hay need to break down before using it? What about the soiled remnants of round bales we cleaned out of the pasture from winter feeding? Could we use that this spring/summer or is that too fresh?

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  2. Another question- if only a few sprouts come up on 'self mulchers' ( last year I got about 12 beets from 2 seed packs) should I mulch between the plants?

    Also, should I push down any peas that rose up with this last rain? I've just been pushing them back down and it looks like a few are starting to sprout.

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  3. The hay needs to have gotten thoroughly wet and have started to mold. If it was out all winter, it will certainly have gotten the first part. As the weather warms this spring, it will be easy to tell about the second part! The key is for the seeds to not be able to germinate, really.

    Beets can be hard to get to sprout. They're also a larger seed which means sometimes the birds will come dig them up. :( If you're not getting many that germinate, try throwing a light sheet over the bed (or some row cover if you have it) and then keep it moist by watering through the sheet until you see a lot of sprouts (the sheet won't hurt them at this stage, so you can leave it there to give the later seeds a chance). If the problem is birds, that should solve it. The other possible culprit is a lack of water, but if your other seeds are coming up that shouldn't be it. Just in case, the surface should be pretty constantly moist while small, shallowly planted seeds are sprouting. This will mean watering once a day at a minimum and maybe twice if its really sunny. Once they sprout, you can cut back.

    Yes, you should push down the peas! :D We play that game too every time it rains. It made me smile to hear someone else having that problem. I have always suspected that the ones that popped up probably didn't get planted deep enough to begin with (peas should be about an inch down), but it doesn't seem to matter how much I try to get them all planted right, I still have some pop up. LOL Once they get their first root bit into the dirt, they'll stop.

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